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Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Grahm awash the cast this month.

Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Grahm awash the cast this month.

Photo: Alex Krause-Bonny Doon Acreage

Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Grahm awash the cast this month.

Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Grahm awash the cast this month.

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Reflecting the hardships of the business, an agnostic analyzer of ‘Big Wine’ sells his indie vineyard

The adventurous abstraction of a small, appropriate winery angry quixotically at the windmills of accumulated wine took a hit this ages with the account that Randall Grahm has awash Bonny Doon Vineyard. Grahm’s adventure – his successes and failures – is absolutely claimed and individual, yet the auction illustrates the adversity baby absolute wineries face in a bazaar that is more circumscribed at every level.

If it is accessible for anyone to be both figure and iconoclast, Grahm able that. He launched Bonny Doon in 1981 acquisitive to accomplish pinot noir in the Santa Cruz Mountains of California. But he bound angry to Rhone varieties such as grenache and syrah. He alleged his flagship red alloy Le Cigare Volant, afterwards a 1954 authorization anesthetized by the acclaimed wine boondocks of Chateauneuf-du-Pape in southern France that banned “flying cigars” – UFOs – from landing in the vineyards. Wine Spectator featured him in Lone Ranger regalia on its awning in 1989 as “The Rhone Ranger,” allowance barrage a movement that still thrives today. He was one of the aboriginal U.S. winemakers to best spiral caps, alike staging a lavish, if premature, account appointment “funeral” for the cork. His arcane newsletters captivated his admirers with amusing jabs at “big wine” and the critics who adored college booze with college point scores, including a diffuse riff on Dante’s “Divine Comedy” called, “The Vinferno.” His calm writings were appear in book anatomy in 2009 as “Been Doon So Long” and won Grahm a James Beard Award.

He created the Big House band of wines, which offered aerial affection at prices about impossibly bashful for California, but awash it in 2006 because he didn’t appetite to become the blazon of “big wine” association he loathed. He additionally created Pacific Rim Riesling, with avant-garde labeling you apprehend through the wine in the bottle, and congenital that into a acknowledged cast afore affairs it in 2011. Bonny Doon’s Vin Gris de Cigare was a hit rosé afore rosé became a craze. He was additionally amid the aboriginal – and still actual few – to apostle additive labeling on wines.

Grahm’s adroitness and activity didn’t consistently assignment in his favor. He acknowledges agitation with “the business ancillary of the business,” adding, “spreadsheets accord me a headache.” In a chat I had with him backward aftermost year, he tended to activate his answers with “Well, it seemed like a acceptable abstraction at the time . . . ” He grew Bonny Doon to 40,000 cases, not ample by California standards, but he had so abounding altered wines it was generally adamantine to accumulate up. The bazaar couldn’t accumulate up, either, and ultimately it confused on.

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Bonny Doon’s new buyer is WarRoom Ventures, the ancestor aggregation of Lapis Luna Wines in Santa Margarita, Calif. The amount was not disclosed. Grahm will abide with the aggregation as a accomplice and “guarantor of gravitas.” Bonny Doon’s assembly manager, Nicole Walsh, will abide to baby-sit wine production. Grahm charcoal buyer of Popelouchum, a acreage in San Juan Bautista, area he is attempting to cast new grape varieties ill-fitted to California’s soils and climate.

While Grahm approved to accomplish with Bonny Doon in both acceptable administration and direct-to-consumer sales, he said those two paths are more difficult to navigate, because they amount adverse attributes.

“There has been a greater alliance of the broad channel, with mid-sized accomplished wine distributors – those alluringly ill-fitted to advertise Bonny Doon wines – acceptable an endangered breed accessible to either accretion or non-viability,” Grahm explained to me in an email afterwards the auction was announced. His “eclectic experimentation” was “anathema” to wholesalers, who favor “ubiquity, simplicity, availability,” he said.

WarRoom Ventures was founded in 2018 to “focus on abundant amount wines with branding that evokes emotion,” aggregation admiral Andrew Nelson said in the account announcement the affiliation with Bonny Doon. The company’s website appearance three brands: Lapis Luna and Wildlife Wine, both with vibrantly black labels, and a rosé wine seltzer alleged Bubble Butt.

WarRoom “has taken the astute advance of absorption on wholesale” to abound the Bonny Doon brand, Grahm said. That will appear at a price. The new focus will accept alone four wines: Le Cigare Volant and Le Cigare Blanc, a vermentino-based white, the accepted Vin Gris de Cigare, and addition white from the picpoul grape. Familiar labels like Old Telegram, Clos de Gilroy and Cardinal Zin will no best be produced.

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That sounds a bit like the action that fabricated Big House wines a success afore Grahm angry abroad from it, as able-bodied as a band from the aperture of “The Vinferno,” as his narrator begins the coast into the nine circles of vinous hell.

“The all-inclusive portfolio of labels, brands, had already seemed all to the acceptable . . . “

– – –

The apple of wine absent two French giants in January. Georges Duboeuf, the “king of Beaujolais,” died Jan. 4 at age 86. Duboeuf was a business ability who angry Beaujolais Nouveau, the almost brewed wine of the contempo harvest, into a all-around affair anniversary November.

While Duboeuf affected Beaujolais, Michel Lafarge created abstract burgundies that absorption abounding connoisseurs. Lafarge died Jan. 15 at age 91. He was a fifth-generation vigneron, based in Volnay, with baby vineyards in added villages of the Cote de Beaune.

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– – –

McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. On Twitter: @dmwine.

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